Small is Beautiful

Hi everyone, firstly congratulations to Sarah Hoare for winning September’s Perfect Portraits Challenge. Don’t forget this month’s Small is Beautiful Photo Challenge winner will be announced at the start of November, so make sure you submit your entry before the closing date of 31st October to be in with a chance of winning!

This month’s article is all about ‘shooting macro’. This means getting closer than ever before, because macrophotography is basically the term used for taking close-up shots. Technically, ‘macro’ should only apply to shots taken to give a 1:1 or closer magnification, and this would normally require the use of a ‘macro’ lens.

In real terms, it involves taking close-up shots that show small details that would be difficult to see with the naked eye. For example, we can see a spider in its web, even make out the individual strands of silk, but our eyes aren’t equipped to see the very fine hairs on its body.

Macrophotography is a very broad area; it can involve you shooting virtually anything, wherever you are. Indoors or outside, with daylight or artificial light from a flash – there’s no hard-and-fast rule. The choice is all down to you and it’s a chance to get really creative with your camera. I hope you will!

Maybe you will choose to shoot insects – which requires patience! Or close-ups of flowers? Or why not get in really close to some everyday objects, such as kitchen implements or fruit and veg, for a really intriguing shot? Water droplets, rust and peeling paint can be fascinating in extreme close-up, likewise etched crystal glassware. Or you can get up close and personal with someone you know! Shoot their eyeball or the stubble on their chin in fine detail.

Here are some basic tips to set on your way:

1. If your camera has a ‘Macro’ setting, use it.

I know this sound rather obvious! But this setting will let you get in much closer.

2. Use a tripod.

If your subject is static, I would always recommend using a tripod for macrophotography. This will eliminate user-induced camera shake, resulting in a clearer, sharper image.

3. Fill in the shadows.

If your subject is harshly lit, giving you heavy shadows, try bouncing the light back in using a small reflector, such as a shaving mirror or a piece of white or foil-covered card.

4. Focus is critical.

If possible, set your lens to ‘Manual Focus’ to give yourself total focusing control on the area you want to be sharp. The Lumix G2 magnifies a small area in live view, to enable you to fine-focus; a very useful feature. If you want to get as close as possible to your subject, it’s sometimes easier to set your lens to its nearest possible focus position (i.e. the opposite of infinity ∞) and literally focus by moving the whole camera forwards and backwards to obtain clarity as you want.

5. Aperture matters.

The ability to set the aperture manually is a big plus when shooting ‘macro’. Use a wide aperture to blur the background and give you the option of a faster shutter speed – which could be extremely useful, depending on your subject.

6. Simplify your shots.

If the background is complex, it can make your shot lack ‘punch’. Try using a piece of black card or cloth at a distance behind your subject, replacing the background entirely. This will project your subject ‘off the page’!

To illustrate the above points, I have taken a few shots on my G2 fitted with the Lumix Macro 45mm f2.8 lens. Preparing for the shoot, I headed off to my local supermarket and bought some interesting fruit and veg to take back to my studio. But you may choose to start by looking around your home for inspiration…

Shots 1 and 2 are of corn on the cob (what the Americans call maize). I put the cob onto a square of black velvet to create contrast, then lit it with a single light source, reflecting the light back into the shadows with a piece of A4 white card.

• Lumix G2 camera with 45mm Macro lens attached.
• ISO 100
• White Balance set to Flash
• 1/80th sec at f8.0

Shot 3 is of lemon and lime. I composed this still life with thin slices of these citrus fruits on a piece of opalescent white perspex, lit from below. It’s fun to improvise with backgrounds and settings to suit your chosen subject matter. I reflected the light back into the edges of the fruit using a mirror.

• Lumix G2 camera with 45mm Macro lens attached.
• ISO 100
• White Balance set to Flash
• 1/100th sec at f22.0

Sticking with my theme, shots 4 and 5 are of slices of kiwi fruit using the same setup and camera settings as for the lemon and lime. (Like anyone else, photographers should get their five-a-day!)

Shots 6, 7, 8 and 9 are of a spider and its web, so not ideal for arachnophobes! I shot outdoors in daylight and, to create a series of more dynamic shots, I very carefully sprayed the web first with a fine mist of water. I also used my white piece of A4 card to reflect the light back into the shadows on shots 6 and 7.

• Lumix G2 Camera with 45mm Macro lens attached.
• ISO 100
• White Balance set to Daylight
• 1/250th sec at f8.0

Shots 10 and 11 are of another of nature’s beautiful forms, a seashell. I shot outdoors again, in overcast conditions on the edge of a garden table. I had my camera on a tripod and tried the shell at various angles to get the shots I wanted.

• Lumix G2 Camera with 45mm Macro lens attached.
• ISO 100
• White Balance set to Cloudy
• 1/8th sec at f11.0

Lastly, shot 12 is just to show you the simplicity of the setup. You don’t need a lot of fancy materials and equipment, really – and almost anything can make an interesting shot when photographed from a totally new perspective: in extreme close-up.

So, start thinking ‘macro’ this month. But remember, if you are going to send in your best shot for the monthly Photo Challenge competition – and please do! – I don’t just want close-ups. I am looking for CREATIVE close-ups! What can you apply macrophotography to, to produce a winning image?

Enjoy getting in really close and good luck!

Phil